All you ever wanted to know about
Ebikes is right here! – Technical and Installation
It’s the energy capacity of battery. Wh=Ah x V.
For example a 48V, 8.8Ah battery gives you 48V 8.8Ah = 422.4Wh energy which ideally means you can draw 422W power for 1 hour. The equivalent battery in 36V standard will be about 11.7Ah
It’s the current capacity of the battery. The maximum current the battery can be discharged at continuously for 1 hour. For example; you can draw 10A continuously from a 10Ah battery for 1 hour or 5A for 2 hours.
This is a parameter that gives you a range. However, the energy density of a battery should be measured by Wh(watt-hour) if you are comparing battery systems of different voltage. Ah increase when using higher capacity Li-Ion cells or using more Li-Ion cells in parallel in a battery pack.
Power equals Voltage by Current:
- The higher the voltage, lower current is necessary to get the same amount of power (P=VI).
- The voltage should be managed by compromising safety and current rating of component.
This is a parameter which is set based on electrical characteristics of the motor/controller and wiring.
- Voltage has no mechanical effect on the ebike performance.
- Having a higher motor or battery Voltage does not translate a higher performance or higher range by itself.
- Voltage in Li-Ion battery is a matter of number of cells in series.
Battery Voltage will not be constant and varies based on SOC (state of charge) a complete charged battery voltage is about 42V when it is nominally 36V and battery voltage is about 30V when the battery is considered complete depleted.
The amount in Watts shows the power (P) of motor. The power is important for riding faster both on flat or slope. There is a rated power definition for electric motor, which is the nominal power that the motor is designed to work to deliver efficiency and long life. Usually maximum or peak power is higher than the rated power. For example EbikeBC 350W geared hub motor can deliver up to 500W power at standard controller setting.
Here is an estimated cost of brand new battery packs or refurbishing the battery with new LG, SAMSUNG or Panasonic cells and BMS:
|Voltage & Capacity||cells||BMS||Estimated Price in C$|
|48V 17.5Ah||18650 LG or Panasonic||30A rated||895.00|
|48V 13Ah||18650 LG or Panasonic||30A rated||695.00|
|48V 10.4Ah||18650 LG or Panasonic||20A rated||595.00|
|36V 10.4Ah||18650 LG or Panasonic||20A rated||475.00|
|36V 8.8Ah||18650 LG or Panasonic||20A rated||365.00|
|24V 10.4Ah||18650 LG or Panasonic||20A rated||365.00|
|24V 7.8Ah||18650 LG or Panasonic||15A rated||315.00|
We will have various solutions for older ebikes battery replacement; either by installation of cased battery packs or refurbishing the existing battery case. You need to send us the existing battery and charger so that we test and refurbish with a similar or better capacity and performance using 18650 Li-Ion Cells from LG or Panasonic.
All the battery packs are protected by BMS for over current, under voltage, charging over voltage, cells voltage balance to ensure the safety and durability of the battery pack.
Repairs will be charged on an hourly rate of 75C$. We will let you know the rough estimate in advance. We will also keep open communication throughout the entire process to ensure the services and replacements kept in budget.
Basically all generic BLDC motor controllers should match one another; however there is no protocol for wiring and connections. One should figure out the wiring pin by pin if a wiring diagram is not available. There is always a way to put the broken motor or controller back to work; we should work out the lowest cost with better result.
Yes. All hub motor kits have disk brake standard 6 bolt pattern mounting flange.
No, Motors are considered maintenance free unless something happens.
First of all check the mounting place alternatives on your bike. The lower center of gravity is a big advantage. To check if a certain battery fits in the frame check this link for various batteries dimensions
350W provides 60Nm and 500W peak power enough toques and power for your 10% uphill climbing in pedal assist mode for an 80Kg rider. Don’t expect an ebike climbing up hills fast without pedaling.
500W provides 80Nm enough to climb 15% grade for 80kg rider and power up to 750W. You will have more performance using 500W. Select 500W if you need more climbing ability, higher acceleration, and speed; note that more is not always better since it drains the battery more quickly and is slightly heavier.
The geared hub motor has a clutch inside which engages the motor when motorized. The geared hub motor also has free wheels for when the motor is not providing a torque. The brushless geared hub motor does not have any drag when used as a normal bike; it feels just like 2 free ball bearing.
The mid drive motor (crank motor) provides a boost to the crank torque. The power is transmitted by the chain to the rear freewheel. The bike transmission gear ratio affects the torque and speed. Also the freewheel sprocket lets the wheel freely roll with no drag.
LED shows the charge level, On-Off and Level of assist selection.
LCD has lots of features and settings including:
- Speed, Distance, Time, ODO, Charge, level of assist, battery Voltage, real time power, ambient temperature, security password, cruise control, back lighted, headlight control, power limit setting, speed limit setting, etc.
One important advantage of the LCD version is that the system has a diagnostic feature which shows the error code in case of a failure. That makes it much easier for you and us to resolve the technical problems while installation or operation.
A: 500W Hub motors are a customized version of MXUS XF15. 350W hub motors are an upgraded version of MXUS XF07. The motors and controllers have been redesigned and enhanced for North American standards and usage.
The rim we use is an oval section black double walled alloy rim, stronger than regular rims using 2.6mm chrome spokes. The rim has pad brake tracks and the wheel supports both rim and disk brake.
The tire can be 20in, 24in, 26in, 27.5in, 28in-700C-29er by 25mm or 1in up to 2.3in
Typically, yes. The hub should be Disk compatible but you will need to check to see if the front fork can support the disk brake calipers.
Yes. All batteries can technically be substituted for all motors as long as they are all the same voltage. The capacity needs to meet the motor power demand.
Rack battery in R series can be mounted to your existing rack, however you need to drill some holes or make some support for that.
The battery will warm up once it’s in use, however you will need to cover the battery to keep warm if it is left in -30C. The battery performance will drop down if the cells temperature reaches below 5 degrees Celsius.
The display charge indicator has a lagging system so that it’ll stabilize in cases of voltage fluctuations.
- Switch the bike ON
- Ride for 10-15 sec, and the bars will show full.
At no load condition ~42V is fully charged ~32V is fully discharged. You can estimate the charge level almost linearly in between. For example, 37V is half way. The best way to see the accurate charge level of the battery is to page the screen by clicking the power button twice. The battery Voltage will show up at the bottom of the screen.
It’s not a mandatory by regulations to install brake cut-off sensors.
The sensors are for emergency incidents in cases when you brake abruptly – they’ll cut off the motor’s power. With pedal assist systems, you may not be as quick to squeeze the brake levers. In regular brakes you may need to have this as a double safety feature. Hydraulic brakes are typically powerful enough to stop you if a panic happens.
You can try your ebike without them, and you can try your ebike without installing the cut-off and decide if you need it to be installed.
Our geared motors have an internal clutch which is automatically released when motor is not in use. Therefore unlike Bionx, which has a slight cogging torque and noise, there is no drag or noise at all when freewheeling.
Generally when ebike motors are in use, there will be a slight noise. Noise occurs when you’re switching controls, partially because of the gears and magnets are cogging against each other, which is inevitable. The gears are made of Nylon, and have increased its width by 20% compared to the original design. This is to help diminish the gears from backlash and from wearing out.
The level of motor noise also varies by how fast you’re going and the weight of cargo you’re carrying. However, the noise is not as loud as a mountain bike driving on pavement with 2.1inch thick tires.To minimize the electric switching noise, our geared hub motors have a higher rotational speed so that the cogging noise is less noticeable. Check out what our motors actually sound like from our customers’ videos: https://ebikebc.com/gallerys/ebikebc-videos-category/
- 95% of our customers choose front hub motor because it’s easy to install and maintain.
- They perform better on slippery roads, even on snow.
- Compared to a rear hub motor, you’ll save the headache of visiting a bike mechanic to place in spacers and the derailleur adjustment.
Our 350w and 500W geared hub motors are only 2.7kg and 3.3kg. There is no gyro effect on the handling; unlike direct hub motors which are bigger and heavier. We have up to 9spd freewheels in stock. You can order us the rear wheel with the freewheel of same number of speed. (freewheel price is extra)
A: We do not have a hub motor which can be installed on thru-axle forks at present. We are hoping to develop such motor in near future.
That depends on whether you’ve done your due diligence.
Here are the reasons why hub motor fail, and why forks, regardless from steel or alloy, break:
1- Forcing the axle into the drop out and causing pre stress.
2- Inappropriate order or direction of washers or locking washers.
3- Insufficient bolts torque or not providing a proper nut seat on grooved alloy dropouts.
4- A cracked, defective or old fork
5- Loose or defective headset
If your motor is poorly installed or your bike isn’t maintained properly, you’ll bound to have horror stories about hub motor failures. Having said this, converted ebike should be inspected more often than regular bikes. (They’ll go faster and for longer distances too!) The amount of torque in the street legal hub motors is not enough to break the fork dropouts.
Yet, we don’t recommend motor installation on Carbon fiber forks no matter rear or front.
Dropouts are usually 9 to 10mm considering the paint coat and filing 0.25mm or 0.5mm. Either sides is sometimes necessary and OK.
Whether it’s made of alloy or steel, bike forks are designed for severe working conditions. They’re prepared for road shocks and hard braking. The amount of stress from motor axle torque is negligible compared to other loading scenarios. However, it’s your responsibility to inspect the fork and headset for any crack or defect to prevent risk of failure.
Motor Torque is the characteristic which reflects the traction (thrust) and is important for climbing up hills.
- The traction force equals Torque divided by wheel radius (F=T/R).
- The more torque at the wheel gives you a higher grade-ability.
- The smaller wheel diameter gives a higher traction force or climb-ability with same motor torque.
The torque at the wheel for mid-drive motors should be calculated like this:
- Max Torque at Wheel for crank motors = Max Motor Torque x Number of rear cog teeth / Number of Chain wheel teeth